FEED OR NOURISH IN A “POPULAR RESTAURANT” IN SPAIN: REFLECTIONS ON COMMENSALITY
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.12957/demetra.2015.16173Keywords:
C ommensality. F ood P ractices. F ood A ssistance. Spain.Abstract
This paper is about the changes in food practices of sociallyvulnerable people affected by the recent economic and financialcrisis in Spain. The fieldwork was conducted in a “soup kitchen”located in Reus, Catalonia, Spain. The analysis refers specificallyto observations on commensals’ behavior at lunchtime and use offocus groups and interview techniques. The project’s coordinatorsvalue the ritual meals as a way to promote solidarity andconviviality, giving commensality a special sense of embracement.The “embrace” is perceived by commensals through the volunteerwork. However, commensals relate negatively the commensalitywith loss of autonomy in food decision. As the “with whom andwhere to eat” decision in the restaurant is not on them, the actof eating is a personal interest and an individual satisfaction,observing an individualization of eating during the meal. “Whatto eat” is also not a commensal choice. For them the menu ischaracterized by less consumption of meat, fruit and vegetablesand higher consumption of “carbohydrates”. At the same time,because of the poverty condition, there is a resignation towardsthe food that is served. Commensals, in spite of feeling supported,present a loss of cultural reference, nutritional quality of foodand the power to make decisions about their food.
DOI: 10.12957/demetra.2015.16173
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