REGIONAL, NATIONAL OR GLOBAL COOKING: A NARRATIVE REVIEW OF THE MANIFESTO REGIONALISTA OF 1926 WRITTEN BY GILBERTO FREYRE
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.12957/demetra.2016.15053Keywords:
Culinária Regional, Culinária Brasileira, Manifesto Regionalista, Guia Alimentar, Alimentação e Nutrição, Gilberto Freyre.Abstract
The article aims to analyze Gilberto Freyre’s contribution for the intellectual debate of the 1920s and 1930s on the construction of national identity, focusing the centrality of regional cooking in the Brazilian society’s identity process, according to the book Manifesto Regionalista, issued in 1926. The Manifesto was published in the First Regionalist Congress in February 1926, in Recife, Pernambuco state, as opposed to the 1922 Modern Art Week, held in São Paulo state, Brazil. In the book, Freyre discusses the concepts of regionalism, nationalism, internationalism, among others. He describes the traditional values of the Brazilian northeastern culture, identifies the threats to which they were submitted and proposes strategies for its valorization. Among the exalted cultural values, aspects of regional architecture and cooking stand out. The review draws the attention to the pioneering spirit of the strategies recommended for the preservation of the Brazilian northeastern cuisine, considered by Freyre as the one that best expressed the syncretism of the cuisines of the three ethnicities (Amerindian, Portuguese and African). The analysis points to similarities between the Manifesto and the second edition of the Food Guide for the Brazilian Population, emphasizing Freyre’s approach contemporaneity. Both embrace conservative assumptions, anchored in the appreciation of the past (traditions) and hostility towards transformations (modernity): in the Manifesto, the advocation of the Brazilian northeastern agrarian-patriarchal regional cuisine and the hostility towards foreign cuisine; in the Guide, the appreciation of the domestic cooking based on food in its natural state and hostility towards highly processed products.
DOI: 10.12957/demetra.2016.15053
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